Onitsha History, Kingship and Changing Cultures

Onitsha 1992: Brief Encounters

Author’s Note:   This page will be a very difficult one to write, first to order the captured images and second to reconstruct the entire visit.  On the  night of our second day in Onitsha, Helen fell into a large streetside drainage ditch and broke both end-bones of the tibia and fibula where they connect to her ankle.  I  (the remaining prime story-teller here) fell into a kind of psychological frenzy from that point on, which did not abate much during our then-shortened visit (while Helen, so far as I could tell, remained fairly calm through it all).  Therefore the ethnography of this report will be scattered and rather disorganized, reflecting my own “fractured” condition.  It will also take considerable time to build this reconstuction, but I will begin by presenting images (where we have them)  and will build the story largely around these  We also have substantial video records, but re-establishing these into usable forms may be sometime forthcoming.

The Plan of Travel & Research: Nneka Umunna and Helen Henderson
Arrival:  Unrecognizable Cities

Settlement in Fear



Into the Ditch


Saint Charles Preserves Us
Ifekandu’s Grave (Iba)
Etukokwu’s Castle


Aniweta’s Mansion


Visiting Igwe Enwezor


Ikemefuna, now  as Ozo


The Akpoms


Architectures, Technologies


Adventures with Caroline Ifeka-Moller


The (long-postponed) Funeral of Nne-Cecilia

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